While most of my adventures involve going up, I decided I had to check something out that would involve going down! Oregon is a land sculpted by volcanoes and volcanic activity, and in Newberry Volcanic National Monument, you can explore the largest intact lava tube in the state!
Formed by an underground river of molten lava, this cave is explorable to about a mile deep. Newberry Volcano isn’t nearly as recognizable as the nearby Three Sisters or the iconic Mt Rainier, but this volcano is massive, about the size of Rhode Island, and there are tons of things to see and explore on a visit! On a day exploring this incredible area, I had to check out this cave!
Miles:
~2.2 miles
About Newberry Volcanic National Monument:
Located outside the city of Bend in Central Oregon, Newberry Volcanic National Monument is a large area of protected land preserving one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest volcanoes. Carved out of Deschutes National Forest, this national monument is over 54,000 acres, and is still managed by the US Forest Service.
The monument protects the Newberry Volcano. While it’s not as famous or visible as other volcanoes in the region like Mt Rainier or Mt Hood, Newberry Volcano is absolutely massive. The volcano is about the size of the state of Rhode Island, and while it does not have the recognizable, snow covered, cone of many of other volcanoes in the area, it is immensely powerful.
The main highlight of the monument is the Newberry Caldera. While it looks like a giant crater when viewed from above, this area was actually formed when the magma chamber beneath the volcano collapsed. Since then, the park’s pair of lakes have formed within the caldera, and now the caldera is the main tourist location in the park.
Beyond the caldera, tourists also flock to the Lava River Cave. Lava flowed from the main caldera area miles north towards Bend, and this legacy is preserved by some of the underground lava tubes through which molten rock once flowed. Lava River Cave is the largest uncollapsed lava tube in Oregon, and can be explored by visitors. Reservations are recommended though!
Getting To Lava River Cave:
Lava River Cave is just south of, and easily reached from, the city of Bend Oregon. From Bend, follow Highway 97 straight south out of town. After about 13 miles, turn left onto Cottonwood Road. Follow Cottonwood Road for maybe a mile or so until you reach the large parking area.
Tips:
- Be sure to reserve a timed use ticket ahead of time.
- Dress warm. The cave remains roughly 42 degrees all year no matter the temperature outside.
- Lights can be rented, or you may use your own. 2 light sources are recommended for safety.
- Your clothing cannot have been worn in a cave or mine before. This is to prevent the spread of White-nose Syndrome which is lethal to bats.
Lava River Cave:
Arriving At Lava River:
Upon arrival at Lava River Cave, check in at the welcome center. They’ll point you in the direction of a small outdoor seating area for an introductory talk. A ranger will go over some of the history and geology behind the cave, some safety restrictions and procedures, the wildlife in and around the cave, and a bit of information about Newberry at large.
I won’t go into detail about everything said, but there were a few highlights worth mentioning. For one, you cannot wear or bring anything into the cave that has previously been in a cave or mine. There is a disease called White-nose Syndrome that is killing bats across the country that is not present here, and it can spread on clothing years after exposure.
The ranger also mentioned wildlife. Beyond the bats that inhabit this cave, there are your standard insects and spiders. He did mention that on occasion bears and other large animals do make their way into the cave! Finally, on the topic of safety, it’s recommended to have at least two light sources with you. Powerful flashlights are available to rent, but I just used my headlamp. Smartphone lights are not a good source of light here!
After the ranger talk, you are directed towards the cave. There is a rental shack on the way where you can rent lights, but I continued past and headed towards the cave. The forest around the cave entrance is the classic green pine forest of the Pacific Northwest, but with a gaping chasm in the ground in front of you!
Lava River Cave:
As you approach the cave entrance, you’ll feel cool breezes blowing up towards you. The entrance is reached via a series of metal staircases dropping down into the earth. As you descend, the light slowly darkens, and you’ll eventually enter total darkness!
Definitely check out No Name Lake outside Bend!
Once in the cave, you’ll have metal walkways for a few hundred feet, but they quickly give way to the natural floor of the cave! The cave itself is actually pretty round, but over the course of thousands of years, it has filled with silt and sediment. Today, most of the cave is about half filled with earth and sand, so while you’re walking on the floor, you’re actually about halfway to the ceiling!
You will surprisingly quickly lose all traces of sunlight, and it very quickly becomes total darkness, illuminated only with your and other headlamps. The rock is mostly black, and the sound of dripping water is the main sound you’ll hear. The temperature also drops very quickly, and within minutes of entering, it will be 42 degrees!
While I didn’t notice any bats or other life, there are some pretty cool things to look at. A geologist would have a field day here, and the rocks themselves are pretty crazy. Mostly black, the stone has some pretty wild patterns, and while there aren’t massive stalactites or stalagmites, there are small ones formed by the slow dripping of water!
There are some obstacles on the ground that you’ll have to make your way around (boulders, probably originally on the ceiling), and as you descend, the roof starts closing in. The deeper you go, the more filled in the cave gets, until it eventually is totally filled in at the end.
For the most part, I wasn’t bumping my head (I’m 6’4”), but there were one of two sections where I had to duck and crouch through passages 4 or 5 feet high! The final tight section was near the end of the cave, or at least the end of the cave open to the public.
At the very end, there is a sign telling you to stop and turn around. The cave does continue from here, but beyond this point it’s maybe 3 feet high. You would be on your hands and knees to continue past here, which is a big no thanks for me!
The Green Lakes, Soda Creek Loop is another great hike outside Bend!
Before I headed back and returned to the light, I really wanted to see what true darkness was like. I sort of hung around the very end and waited for everyone else to leave. Once I was alone in the final chamber, I turned my lamp off, and it was totally, completely, black. I waved my hand inches in front of my eyes, nothing!
It was pretty wild being in true, total darkness, and honestly it was a bit unsettling! I’m definitely not a cave person, and videos of people exploring tight or otherwise dangerous caves totally freak me out. I was ready to head out!
The walk back to the entrance was quick and uneventful. They say it’s about a mile from the cave entrance to the very end, so you should be able to get back in no more than 30 minutes. I wasn’t stopping as much on the walk back, so I probably did it in less time than that!
I was honestly happy to see the sun again and get back out into the warm sunshine, but this was a really cool experience! I definitely would recommend checking it out, but I don’t see myself becoming an avid caver any time soon!
Topdown Lifestyle Rating: 10/10
I’m not really sure this is a hike, but in terms of short and easy outdoor adventures, this is about as cool as it gets! You are going to be hard pressed to find anything this unique, and while caves do certainly exist in other places, most aren’t lava tubes! Add on to that it’s self guided and you don’t have to stay with a group and this is a really cool experience!
Pros:
- Totally unique
- Really cool cave
Cons:
- Busy
- Reservations required
Alternative Hikes:
When To Visit Lava River Cave:
While snow is usually the limiting factor in the Cascades, that’s not really the issue here! Lava River Cave is open May through September (exact dates vary) so any time in that range would work fine. If you’re planning on exploring the rest of Newberry or somewhere else in the nearby Cascades on the same trip, your best bet for snow free and sunshine filled days is mid-July to early September!
Links For Further Reading:
Deschutes National Forest – Lava River Cave Interpretive Site
Lava River Cave Trail | Map, Guide – Oregon | AllTrails
Newberry National Volcanic Monument – Lava River Cave – Visit Bend
4 Comments