The greatest of the Bay Area Redwood parks, Big Basin State Park is a massive and wild state park nestled in the hinterlands of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Devastated by the 2020 CZU Fires, the park has largely been closed to the public since; however, it is beginning to reopen its doors.
This was probably my favorite place to hike in the Bay Area before the fires, and one of the only places I continually went back to time and time again. This is a place where I could go hike the same trail over and over, but the sheer majesty of the place made sure it never got old. After about 99% of the park was burned, I was nervous to see the damage, but excited to get back to this incredible place!
Miles/Elevation:
Redwood Loop:
~1 mile
Flat
Dool Trail:
~3 miles
~700 vertical feet
About Big Basin State Park:
At 18,000 acres, Big Basin is one of the largest state parks in the San Francisco Bay Area. Established in 1902, Big Basin is the oldest state park in California, though the original 3,800 acres has been vastly expanded in the last 120 years.
Protecting over 10,000 acres of old growth Redwood forest, the park has been a haven for outdoor recreation for years. Within park boundaries are 81 miles of trails, plus miles of fire roads, linking Big Basin to other parks in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Redwood Loop takes visitors through the largest of the park’s Redwoods, and the Skyline to the Sea Trail takes backpackers from Castle Rock, through Big Basin, all the way to the Pacific!
While Big Basin has been home to Redwood groves for thousands of years, the park looks markedly different since the 2020 CZU Lightning Complex Fires. Nearly the entirety of Big Basin was scorched, the historic park headquarters and many other structures were destroyed, and thousands of trees were killed.
Despite the destruction, most of the old growth Redwoods survived and are continuing to grow and rejuvenate throughout Big Basin. The old headquarters may be destroyed, but new structures are being rebuilt. Hiking is again available in the park, but access is limited and trails are slowly being reopened as downed trees are cleared and trails rebuilt.
To visit Big Basin, you must have a parking reservation. A reservation is $6 plus a small fee, and must be reserved ahead of time.
Getting To Big Basin State Park:
Help keep nature pristine. Follow Leave No Trace!
From the north, including most of the Bay Area, heads towards the town of Saratoga. In Saratoga, get onto highway 9 and follow it as it climbs up and over the Santa Cruz Mountains. After a steep descent down 9, you will reach an intersection with highway 236. Continue straight to follow 236. Stay on 236 all the way to the old park headquarters where you will find parking. Be aware that much of 236 is one lane, and should be driven cautiously.
From the south, including Santa Cruz, head north on highway 9 to Boulder Creek. Once in Boulder Creek, turn left onto highway 236. Follow 236 all the way to the old park headquarters. 236 from Boulder Creek to the old park headquarters is all 2 lanes. There are no 1 lane sections.
The Hike:
The Redwood Loop:
Upon our arrival at Big Basin, we first took a look around the old headquarters area. There are a couple of small ranger station areas set up with rangers there to answer questions, along with rows of porta potties, but all together this area looks much different.
The most notable change in the old headquarters area is the loss of the actual headquarters building. The log cabin style building had stood for about 85 years, serving as the park’s headquarters and entrance station, but all that remains is a set of stone steps and the foundation. It was honestly a bit emotional walking around this once pristine area seeing the destruction for the first time.
Always follow basic trail etiquette when you’re hiking!
All around the road, parking area, and ranger stations are still standing but charred trees. Most of them are showing signs of life though! When you just look around at ground level, at first glance all you see are blackened trunks, but when you look up, greenery appears. The rich green canopies are gone, but the still attached limbs on most of the giants are sprouting small green twigs, a sign that the forest is still alive!
Hiking in the Santa Cruz Mountains? Be sure to check out Castle Rock State Park!
From the parking area, our first route took us on the old Redwood Loop Trail. This was the highlight of the entire park, looping under many of the largest trees in the entire Bay Area. Everytime I visited the park, no matter what trail I spent most of my time on, I always made it a point to do this ¾’s of a mile walk. I never skipped it or took for granted that these massive trees were so close to home.
Check out Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park for more old growth Redwoods!
The trail is still there and most of the trees are still there, but the forest is not the same. The quiet, shadowy, serene, beauty you expect in giant Redwood groves isn’t here. The trees are blackened (though still showing signs of life), the ferns and other green plants of the forest floor are largely gone, and the area is filled with bright sunlight.
It honestly was sad seeing this place destroyed as it was, but despite the destruction, I think the main takeaway should be the resilience of the forest. The largest trees, The Mother of the Forest and the Father of the Forest, are still there, and still growing. Most of the massive trees around the grove are still there. Tons of trees have small Redwoods sprouting out from their bases. We even saw a banana slug!
It will be a long time before this grove looks like it once did, but signs of nature’s resilience are everywhere. I was sad because I have lost one of my favorite places, but in its place is a new, reborn, Big Basin. There is still beauty here. It is just found now in the strength and fortitude of nature.
The Dool Trail:
After our loop through the grove, we set out to hike a bit of the only other trail open at the time. The Dool Trail takes you from the banks of Opal Creek, which runs past the grove, up towards Middle Ridge Road and the Ocean View Summit.
The Dool Trail begins basically right next to the Redwood Loop Trail and very quickly crosses the creek. I’m always amazed at the color of the water here. It has a very bright blue green color, and when the sun hits it just right it’s really beautiful. Again, we can thank the Redwoods. This color comes from the leaching of tannins from fallen Redwood branches!
The best Redwood hike in California is even further up north in Humboldt Redwoods State Park!
You’ll pass under some massive trees on the Dool Trail, but for the most part you will leave the true monsters behind. After following the creek a ways, the trail turns to the left and begins heading uphill. As you climb, the forest will thin out. Redwoods love being on flat ground near running water, so while they can grow on ridges and hillsides, they rarely reach the massive sizes they are capable of.
We didn’t hike the entire Dool Trail, but if you follow it all the way up it eventually reaches the Middle Ridge Fire Road. The area is heavily forested, and while the canopy isn’t nearly as dense as it used to be, you still won’t really have any views out over Big Basin.
After turning around and following the trail back down to the creek, we returned to the park headquarters via the North Escape Road. We could have hiked back on the Dool Trail, but we figured why not see something new, even if it is a paved road!
After a few short minutes we were back at the park headquarters where our car was waiting. It felt really good to be back in Big Basin after years of waiting, but it was sad to see it in its current state. But the forest is recovering, and I think that should be the main takeaway of a visit here. We will have the opportunity to watch an ancient forest recover from devastation which is a pretty cool thing. But I can’t help but mourn the loss of the magic that was.
Topdown Lifestyle Rating: 9/10
Big Basin is still Big Basin. The giant trees are still there. The birds and the banana slugs are still there. But, something is lost. This place used to be truly magical, and while there is regrowth and many reasons to be optimistic about the future, it is not the same.
The quiet grandeur and beauty of the redwoods has largely been lost. Rather than soft light gently penetrating to the forest floor, even the oldest groves are bright, airy places. This is still an incredible place to visit, but the reasons are different. No longer should you come here looking for peace and beauty. Come here to see the power of nature as it recovers from devastation. Come here to watch a forest grow back. It’s still great, but it’s not the same.
Pros:
- The largest trees in the Bay Area
- Able to witness the regeneration of a forest
- Feels remote
Cons:
- Forest is severely damaged
- Most trails still closed
- Serene beauty of Redwood groves is gone
Alternative Hikes:
Purisima Creek: Whittemore Gulch and Harkings Ridge
Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park
When To Hike Big Basin State Park:
Big Basin State Park really is a 4 season destination. In summer, you can expect to sweat on exposed sections of trails, and to be comfortable in the shade. During winter, expect to be chilly in the shaded areas, but still warm in exposed sections (at least in the afternoons). Rain is most likely in winter and spring. Really there isn’t a bad time to visit Big Basin!
Links For Further Reading:
Big Basin Redwoods State Park: California State Parks
Big Basin Redwoods State Park: Redwood Hikes
Redwood Trail | Map, Guide – California | AllTrails
Dool Trail, Meteor Trail and Sequoia Trail | Map, Guide – California | AllTrails
