One of the hikes I go back to over and over is the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls. A major highlight of Yosemite, the Mist Trail is one of the classics of not only Yosemite, but the entire National Park System. Featuring epic waterfalls, awesome views, and narrow sections of trail, this is a real classic!
This wasn’t a new hike for me, but since I had the chance to do it, I had to go back again! Plus, I hadn’t written about it for the site!
Miles/Elevation:
7.2 miles
2,217 feet vertical gain
About Yosemite:
Located in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California, Yosemite National Park is one of the largest and most popular parks in the entire National Park System.
Steeped in history, Yosemite has played a major role in the development of environmentalism and conservation in the United States since the late 1800’s. In 1864, President Lincoln created the Yosemite Grant, which did not make Yosemite a national park, but did set the precedent that would lead to the creation of Yellowstone National Park.
Yosemite was ceded to the State of California and ran by the state for much of the late 1800’s. Eventually, in 1890, Yosemite National Park was created, and stronger protections were put in place to preserve the park.
Beyond the National Park Service, the legendary naturalist John Muir is perhaps best known for his advocacy in favor of preserving Yosemite National Park. A giant in the history of conservation, Muir, who fell in love with the mountains after a serious industrial accident, became arguably the most influential figure in preserving the natural landscapes of the west. His relationship with President Theodore Roosevelt and the expansion of federally protected lands may be the greatest achievement of this era of conservation!
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Getting To Yosemite:
Located in Central California, Yosemite is fairly remote, but can be reached from a number of major cities. The closest large city is Fresno, and Fresno’s airport is the best choice if you are flying in. Other cities located within a three hour or so drive with major airports include Los Angeles, San Francisco, Oakland, San Jose, and Sacramento.
From these cities or any others, you’ll then likely need to drive to the park. There is a regional public transit system called YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transit System), and can be useful if you are trying to get to Yosemite Valley. However, I generally advocate having your own car when exploring the mountains. It just makes it easier to explore and get around.
Once you’re in Yosemite, there is a transit system that can get you around the park, however it is not running in 2021. Go to the Yosemite NPS website for more information on public transit in Yosemite. When it is running, the public transit can get you to many of the major trailheads in the park.
Getting To The Trailhead:
The trailhead for the Mist Trail is in the heart of Yosemite Valley. Pretty much all the major roads that go through the park eventually take you to Yosemite Valley, so if you don’t know how to get there just follow the signs! Once in the valley, head towards the far end past Curry Village. There should be signs for Curry Village or the Half Dome or John Muir Trailhead.
Near the base of Half Dome and Glacier Point, the actual trail starts near Happy Isles, but there are a number of places to park. If you can, there is a parking lot at the trailhead; however, it fills up early, so don’t count on getting a spot after mid morning. I usually park right at Curry Village when I use this trail. I like it because I can get some food once I’m done hiking!
Mist Trail:
To Vernal Falls:
Whether you park at the actual trail head or park at Curry Village, you’ll start your hike by walking on a mostly paved path towards Happy Isles. It’s kind of a bummer that you can’t park right at the trailhead, but it’s a nice warm up for the actual trail.
Always follow basic trail etiquette when on trail!
Once you cross the bridge, the trailhead is on the right. For the next mile or so, you’ll be walking on a paved path. I would prefer an actual trail, but since it’s so busy most of the time I think it would be too hard on the soil.
The Merced River is on your right, and you’ll be heading uphill pretty much from the time you start down the trail. You’ll be walking in the woods most of this trail, but you’ll be able to look up at the valley walls pretty much the entire time! As the trail climbs, you’ll be able to look down onto the Merced River. Eventually though, it will catch up to you and you’ll cross a bridge over the river.
After crossing the bridge, the trail really picks up. It was steep already, but it gets quite a bit steeper! A lot of the trail consists of going up granite steps alongside the river. The name Mist Trail makes a lot of sense once you get here. The river cascades downhill through this section, and the force of the water creates a ton of spray. The closer you get to Vernal Falls, the more spray you’ll get!
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As you approach Vernal Falls, the mist can get so strong it’s like being in a rainstorm; some people will even wear rain jackets! The steps go from being steep to being absurdly steep. You’ll probably be pulling yourself up along with standing on the rocks. It’s not a rock climb, but it’s legitimately steep!
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The final stretch to the top of the falls is through a very narrow section of trail protected by a railing. You’ll be fine, but it’s pretty fun to look over the edge!
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Once you’re through, you made it to the top of Vernal Falls! Head over to the actual top of the falls and get an awesome view looking down the valley! It’s a great photo op and I just think its cool to stand at the top of a waterfall!
To Nevada Falls:
A great place to relax near Vernal Falls is at the Emerald Pool, just upstream from the falls. It looks like a great place to swim, but swimming is off limits because of the risk of going over the falls. People do die on this trail via swimming, so don’t become a statistic.
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The trail from Vernal keeps heading upstream and crosses over the river. The trail reenters the forest and continues climbing. You have already climbed about 1000 feet, but from here you have another 1000 or so to go. Most of the trail from here to the top of Nevada Falls is pretty uneventful, but there are some nice views.
As you approach the base of Nevada Falls, you’ll get great unexposed views of the falls. From here, the last couple hundred feet of climbing are a series of switchbacks that go basically straight up. It’s a tough finish, but once you crest the final one you’re at the top!
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From the switchbacks, you’re actually above the falls, and will have a little descent to reach the water. Once you get to the falls, theres a small viewing area that goes right up to the cliffs, a small beach area (not sure how sandy it is but you can dip your feet in) (again swimming is dangerous) and a bridge over the river.
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The views are epic here, and it’s the best spot to relax and take a break! On the far side of the river there are some nice spots to sit, and a little ways up the trail there is a bathroom. I would recommend using the bathroom before descending to the falls!
Down The John Muir Trail:
From the top of Nevada Falls, you have two main options for returning to the trailhead. You could descend the way you came, but the trail is really steep, really narrow, and really crowded. I think the better option is to descend via the John Muir Trail. It gives you better and new views, and will save your knees as you descend.
From Nevada Falls, the trail climbs mildly for a quarter mile or so until it intersects with the Panorama Trail. From here, the descent starts. The views on this first section of descent are some of my favorite in Yosemite. Looking across the valley you can see Liberty Cap above Nevada Falls with the back side of Half Dome in the distance. Right in front of your feet is a massive drop separated from you by a waist high rock wall!
Even on a hot sunny day, you’ll encounter quite a bit of water through this part of the trail. Part of the wall leaks water, and forms a sort of weeping wall along the trail. It’ll probably be pretty warm by this point, so the light shower will probably feel really nice!
As you continue down, the views are consistently awesome for the first half of the descent. You pass a junction that leads to Vernal Falls, and from here the trail drops down into more forested areas. To be honest, the descent tends to drag on, and my knees and/or ankles are always sore after this descent, not sure why!
Push through the switchbacks, and you’ll make quick progress! The John Muir Trail eventually rejoins the Mist Trail a little bit above the first bridge you crossed at the start of the hike, and from there it’s just the paved part of the hike left! There are a couple of painfully steep sections on the way back through the paved part of the hike, but you’re so close! Then you’re back to the road, and your car is just a short flat walk away!
Topdown Lifestyle Rating: 9/10
This is probably the most iconic hike in Yosemite apart from the massive endeavor that is Half Dome, and most hikers will take the Mist Trail to Half Dome. The waterfalls, the views, the trail, all of it is awesome. However, there are a couple of little things that keep me from rating this hike a ten.
The first is the fact that from the parking lot, the first mile and a half are on a paved trail. If it was a really long hike, a mile and a half of pavement wouldn’t be a huge deal, but this trail isn’t that long so it’s a pretty big percentage of the hike. Second, this trail is crazy busy. Normally I don’t punish a trail for that, and I don’t really mind it, but since I’m on the edge of a 9 or 10, I’ll take it into consideration.
Overall, this is an incredible trail and should be the number one hike on your to do list in Yosemite unless you are doing Half Dome.
Pros:
- Awesome waterfalls
- Big views
- Nice/unique trail
Cons:
- Crazy busy
- Pavement for first section
- Very steep sections of trail
Alternative Hikes:
Sentinel Dome and Taft Point Loop
When To Visit:
Hiking in Yosemite is a three season activity. Winter usually brings quite a bit of snow, and the entire park is liable to experience winter storms. While lower elevation areas of the park may be hikable in winter, I really wouldn’t say Yosemite is a four season hiking destination.
Purely in terms of weather, fall and spring are the best times of year to hike in Yosemite. Summer can get extremely hot, and hiking in 95 degree heat isn’t fun for most people! The one issue with fall is that fire season can either close down areas of the park, or more likely will blanket the park with smoke. In good years, it’s hardly an issue, but some years it’s harmful to even be outside.
It is also worth considering when Yosemite is busiest. This is one of the busiest parks in the country, so be ready for crowds if you visit in peak season, namely summer. Some people are really turned off by the crowds, and I agree if you only visit the valley, but there are always places to get away from the big crowds. This can cause issues with finding campsites in the park though.
Overall, I would say that late spring is probably the best time of year to visit Yosemite. The temperatures are comfortable, rain is rare, and the crowds are lighter than summer. Late autumn is also a great time to visit as spring may still have snow lingering on the trails.
The last thing to consider when planning your visit is that the high elevation roads through the park close for snow. Tioga Pass and Glacier Point Road both close from winter to whenever the snow melts (usually May or June but it varies). Spring will limit where you can go in the park, so if you really want to explore the high country, wait at least until late June!
Links For Further Reading:
Best trails in Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park (US National Park Service)
Yosemite National Park | Lodging & Year Round Activities | TravelYosemite.com
Yosemite National Park | Lodging, Camping, Attractions | Yosemite.com
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